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Understanding Diamond Shapes

Diamond shape refers to the geometric form of the diamond when viewed from above. Each shape has been carefully developed to maximize different optical properties like brilliance, fire, and scintillation. The choice of shape is largely personal preference, but understanding the characteristics of each can help you make the perfect selection.

Beyond aesthetics, different shapes also affect the diamond's apparent size, how it wears on the hand, and even its value retention. Our comprehensive guide covers the most popular shapes with expert insights on cut quality, proportions, and selection criteria.


Explore All Diamond Shapes

Click any shape to jump to its detailed guide with proportions, LightScoreβ„’ benchmarks, and expert tips.

57–58 Facets
01 / 8

Round Brilliant

The most popular diamond shape, featuring 57–58 facets designed to maximize brilliance and fire.

The Round Brilliant cut is the most popular and researched diamond shape, accounting for over 75% of all diamonds sold. Developed over centuries and perfected by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919, this cut features 57 facets arranged in a specific pattern to maximize light return. The round brilliant offers unmatched brilliance and fire, making it the perfect choice for engagement rings.

Key Characteristics
  • Maximum brilliance
  • 57–58 facets
  • Excellent light performance
  • Most popular choice
Ideal Proportions
Table % 54–57%
Depth % 61–62.5%
Crown Angle 34–35Β°
Pavilion Angle 40.6–41Β°
LightScoreβ„’ Benchmarks
85+
Excellent
78–84
Very Good
70–77
Good
Best For
✦ Classic elegance, maximum sparkle, traditional engagement rings
76 Facets
02 / 8

Princess Cut

A square or rectangular diamond with pointed corners and brilliant-cut faceting.

The Princess cut combines the brilliance of round diamonds with a contemporary square shape. Created in the 1980s, this cut features pyramid-like faceting that creates exceptional fire and scintillation. Princess cuts are known for their modern appeal and excellent value retention.

Key Characteristics
  • Square shape
  • Brilliant faceting
  • Contemporary appeal
  • Excellent fire
Ideal Proportions
Table % 67–72%
Depth % 65–75%
Length to Width 1.00–1.05
Crown Height 10–15%
LightScoreβ„’ Benchmarks
82+
Excellent
75–81
Very Good
68–74
Good
Best For
✦ Modern settings, those who want brilliance with geometric appeal
58 Facets
03 / 8

Emerald Cut

A rectangular step-cut diamond with cropped corners, featuring parallel facets.

The Emerald cut features step-cut faceting with parallel lines that create a hall-of-mirrors effect. This cut emphasizes clarity over brilliance, making it essential to choose higher clarity grades. The emerald cut offers sophisticated elegance with its clean lines and vintage appeal.

Key Characteristics
  • Step-cut faceting
  • Hall-of-mirrors effect
  • Emphasizes clarity
  • Art Deco elegance
Ideal Proportions
Table % 61–69%
Depth % 61–67%
Length to Width 1.30–1.50
Crown Height 12–15%
LightScoreβ„’ Benchmarks
75+
Excellent
68–74
Very Good
60–67
Good
Best For
✦ Sophisticated tastes, vintage-inspired settings, those who prioritize clarity
57–58 Facets
04 / 8

Oval Cut

An elongated brilliant cut that combines the fire of round diamonds with a unique shape.

The Oval cut offers the brilliance of a round diamond with an elongated shape that creates the illusion of greater size. This cut can make fingers appear longer and more slender. Oval diamonds require careful selection to avoid bow-tie effects in lower-quality cuts.

Key Characteristics
  • Elongated brilliant cut
  • Creates size illusion
  • Flattering on fingers
  • Excellent brilliance
Ideal Proportions
Table % 53–63%
Depth % 58–62%
Length to Width 1.35–1.50
Bow Tie Minimal
LightScoreβ„’ Benchmarks
83+
Excellent
76–82
Very Good
69–75
Good
Best For
✦ Those wanting maximum visual size, elongated finger appearance, unique brilliance
58 Facets
05 / 8

Marquise Cut

A boat-shaped diamond with pointed ends, offering maximum surface area.

The Marquise cut, also known as the navette cut, features a unique boat-like shape with pointed ends. This cut offers one of the largest surface areas of any diamond shape, creating impressive visual size. The marquise requires careful setting to protect the pointed ends.

Key Characteristics
  • Boat-shaped
  • Maximum surface area
  • Impressive visual size
  • Pointed ends require protection
Ideal Proportions
Table % 53–63%
Depth % 58–62%
Length to Width 1.85–2.10
Bow Tie Minimal
LightScoreβ„’ Benchmarks
80+
Excellent
73–79
Very Good
66–72
Good
Best For
✦ Maximum visual impact, unique vintage appeal, creating length illusion
58 Facets
06 / 8

Pear Cut

A teardrop-shaped diamond combining round and marquise characteristics.

The Pear cut, also called teardrop, combines the brilliance of round cuts with the elegance of marquise shapes. This asymmetrical cut can be worn with the point facing toward or away from the hand. Pear shapes require careful selection to ensure proper symmetry and avoid bow-tie effects.

Key Characteristics
  • Teardrop shape
  • Asymmetrical elegance
  • Versatile orientation
  • Combines round and marquise traits
Ideal Proportions
Table % 53–63%
Depth % 58–62%
Length to Width 1.45–1.75
Symmetry Very Good+
LightScoreβ„’ Benchmarks
82+
Excellent
75–81
Very Good
68–74
Good
Best For
✦ Unique elegance, versatile styling, those wanting something different yet classic
58–64 Facets
07 / 8

Cushion Cut

A square or rectangular shape with rounded corners and larger facets.

The Cushion cut, also known as pillow cut, features a square or rectangular shape with rounded corners. This cut offers excellent fire and a romantic, vintage appeal. Cushion cuts can vary significantly in their length-to-width ratios and faceting patterns.

Key Characteristics
  • Rounded corners
  • Excellent fire
  • Vintage romance
  • Variable proportions
Ideal Proportions
Table % 58–68%
Depth % 61–68%
Length to Width 1.00–1.10
Facet Pattern Modified Brilliant
LightScoreβ„’ Benchmarks
80+
Excellent
73–79
Very Good
66–72
Good
Best For
✦ Vintage-inspired settings, those prioritizing fire over brilliance, romantic appeal
58 Facets
08 / 8

Asscher Cut

A square emerald cut with cropped corners and step-cut faceting.

The Asscher cut is essentially a square emerald cut, featuring step-cut faceting and cropped corners. Created by the Asscher Brothers in 1902, this cut emphasizes clarity and offers Art Deco elegance. The Asscher cut requires high clarity grades due to its open faceting structure.

Key Characteristics
  • Square emerald cut
  • Step-cut faceting
  • Art Deco heritage
  • Emphasizes clarity
Ideal Proportions
Table % 61–69%
Depth % 61–67%
Length to Width 1.00–1.05
Crown Height 12–15%
LightScoreβ„’ Benchmarks
74+
Excellent
67–73
Very Good
60–66
Good
Best For
✦ Art Deco aesthetics, those who love emerald cuts but prefer square shapes

Quick Shape Comparison

A side-by-side overview of all 8 diamond shapes across key attributes.

Shape Cut Family Facets Best L/W Ratio Brilliance LightScoreβ„’ Excellent Popularity
Round Brilliant Brilliant 57–58 1.00 β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜… 85+ 95%
Princess Brilliant 76 1.00–1.05 β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜† 82+ 72%
Emerald Step 58 1.30–1.50 β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜†β˜† 75+ 58%
Oval Brilliant 57–58 1.35–1.50 β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜† 83+ 80%
Marquise Brilliant 58 1.85–2.10 β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜† 80+ 45%
Pear Brilliant 58 1.45–1.75 β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜† 82+ 50%
Cushion Brilliant 58–64 1.00–1.10 β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜† 80+ 68%
Asscher Step 58 1.00–1.05 β˜…β˜…β˜…β˜†β˜† 74+ 35%

How to Choose Your Perfect Shape

Consider your personal style, practical factors, and setting preferences to find the ideal diamond shape.

🎨 Consider Your Style

  • Classic & Traditional: Round Brilliant, Oval
  • Modern & Contemporary: Princess, Asscher, Emerald
  • Romantic & Vintage: Cushion, Pear, Marquise
  • Unique & Bold: Heart, Marquise, Pear

πŸ” Practical Considerations

  • Maximum Brilliance: Round Brilliant offers the most sparkle
  • Apparent Size: Marquise and Oval appear larger per carat
  • Durability: Rounded shapes are more chip-resistant
  • Setting Style: Some shapes work better in specific settings

πŸ’‘ Expert Tip

  • Ready to explore diamonds in your preferred shape? Use our Diamond Scoutβ„’ intelligent search to find the perfect diamond with your ideal shape, quality, and specifications.
  • Always request a GIA or IGI certificate to verify cut quality and proportions before purchasing.
  • Use our Price Calculator to estimate the value before you buy.

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